A gentleman’s suit is a tailored piece of art, and the current fashion for men’s suits is fitting and tailored. Your suit should give you a feeling of luxury and prestige and the fabric should feel great against the skin - when other people touch you they will appreciate the feeling of well woven wool.
The under arm of a suit jacket should be fitted and you should feel a little bit of restriction to achieve the silhouette that makes a man look elegant & masculine wearing a tailored suit. Men should not expect to be able to drive their car comfortably with a suit jacket on.
Something that I am questioned about a lot when fitting a suit on a man is the arm holes having less weight in them: this is due to the amount of unseen fusing and internal wool panels that are within the body of a suit.
Some guys suit a single vent (the lower back split) to help disguise any unwanted bumps or love handles. Double back vents (the splits on the back) are also good as you are able to flick your vents when sitting to avoid additional creasing.
The back of the jacket neck must have a smooth clean fit so if your jacket is not sitting smooth on the back neck the jacket can be 'stubbed' or the shoulder 'balanced'. Stubbing the collar means removing the excess fabric - usually 1 cm. Balancing the jacket is removing the extra fabric by trimming the shoulder seam; this approach is slightly more expensive but sometimes achieves the best results. The price for stubbing is around $30 and a balance is $45.
The waist of a nice wool trouser needs to be fitted and sits higher than a casual pant, as a general rule you should be able to fit two fingers between your waist band and skin. Your tailor will be able to let out the waist and seat for the desired fit. The thigh should also be fitted so that the trousers fit snug under your coat. The length of your dress trousers should be sitting 1 cm from the top of your shoe heel. And you should also always buy two pairs of trousers to extend the life of your suit as they wear out quicker than jackets.
"Cos every girl crazy 'bout a sharp dressed man!" - ZZ Top
For more information and tips you can contact Robert here.
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